Monday, July 21, 2003
I've been back from Japan for over 2 weeks now, but once again I feel like part of the country has come back with me. My first weekend in Nashville, an international festival where Japanese dancers were flown in from Tokyo for what the emcee called "a once in a lifetime chance" to see them perform. Guess Nashville people don't get out much. Seeing a lot more ads for camera phones. Before I left, it was just Sprint, now Verizon is selling them too. On Yahoo, ads for ringtones with all the latest songs. The latest Princess of the World Barbie is Japanese in full kimono. Turning on the Travel Channel, a feature on Tokyo in all its urban electric glory.
Friday, July 04, 2003
Back in the U.S. Staying over in Chicago even though everyone seems to be busy. At least Geza and Kathy gave me a place to stay, recovering in a home even if it isn't mine. Not much sleep after the long flight and several days of packing and getting up early to squeeze things in. Read "Rape of Nanking", all about the Japanese massacre in China right before WWII (300,000 killed)--funny that was barely mentioned in Hiroshima museum. Goes into depth about the effort to cover up this negative part of Japanese history. Author Iris Chang is good friend of Kathy's.
Thursday visited Nara for a few hours to see the big Buddha and the deer park. Small and a nice place to wander around. On train back, talked with a woman going into Kyoto--of course she had her keitai so posed for a photo. Rushed in, thought I had enough time to check email before getting the Shinkansen, but since it's always punctual and I had taken for granted how much longer it would take with the rain and all my luggage, I missed it by about 3 minutes. Just as well since I couldn't find my tickets anyway and had a little bit more time to find the airport train at the station. Saw fun Japanese movie on plane--"Free and Easy 13". Would have been good for class since about gender relations and office politics. Several phrases in English: "Fishing is my life", "No problem".
Thursday visited Nara for a few hours to see the big Buddha and the deer park. Small and a nice place to wander around. On train back, talked with a woman going into Kyoto--of course she had her keitai so posed for a photo. Rushed in, thought I had enough time to check email before getting the Shinkansen, but since it's always punctual and I had taken for granted how much longer it would take with the rain and all my luggage, I missed it by about 3 minutes. Just as well since I couldn't find my tickets anyway and had a little bit more time to find the airport train at the station. Saw fun Japanese movie on plane--"Free and Easy 13". Would have been good for class since about gender relations and office politics. Several phrases in English: "Fishing is my life", "No problem".
Wednesday, July 02, 2003
Last full day in Japan--planning on spending a few hours in Nara tomorrow morning, then rushing back on the shinkansen to hop on the airport express to Narita. Hard to believe it's almost over. Managed to do a lot today, though feel like this is turning into more a tourist diary than reflection. Rushed in the morning, couldn't find subway and wasn't sure what bus to take, but somehow made it on time to get permission to visit the Imperial Palace. The tour was a little ho-hum except for the nice garden(a recurring theme). Next, walked to Nijo Castle. Wasn't sure whether it was worth it since had been disappointed with castles before, but this one was good, with paintings on the walls and several mannequin displays to show how the shoguns held court.
Then off to Katsura Imperial Villa which had also gotten permission for. A quick train ride, but unlike Tokyo, no maps with directions of how to get to the attractions--guess it was more of a suburban area off the beaten path. So took a cab and barely made it on time. Tour was in Japanese and although it was a nice garden, it was annoying to linger in places since I had extra viewing time while the guide was droning on. Met several landscaping and architecture students here for a program on Japanese gardens. Took the bus back--went to Sanjusangen-do Temple which had a 1001 wooden statues of Kannon. Pretty cool. The National Museum was across the street and since was cheap for students, popped on in. Pottery, old stuff and a few calligraphy and kimono displays. Skipped the special exhibition which was on the Art of Star Wars.
Had planned to finish off day with Kiyomizu Temple, thinking it closed at 6:30, but as I walked up the street, many people were walking in the opposite direction, saying the temple was closing. Pressed forward anyway, a steep walk far from the main road and looked open. About 10 seconds after I arrived, the guy pulled the closed rope so I just had enough time to walk up and around for about 5 minutes before going back. The main hall was under reconstruction anyway so apparently I didn't miss much.
So still have to wrap up my experience here--hopefully will have a chance to relax in Chicago. Kyoto was not the amazing place everyone said it would be, but think that's more because I was here more "taking its pulse" as my mom might say. Tokyo overall was ugly, but part of the interest is in learning the rhythm of the city, finding pockets of beauty and making friends, which I couldn't do here.
Highlights: Kamakura, Hirajuku/Ometesando, Pierrot Cafe in Shimokitezawa, Yokohama Doll Museum, Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation
Overrated: Nikko, Tokyo National Museum,Himeji Castle
Still left plenty of things to see if I choose to come back, but feel pretty content with what I managed to see while I was here...
Then off to Katsura Imperial Villa which had also gotten permission for. A quick train ride, but unlike Tokyo, no maps with directions of how to get to the attractions--guess it was more of a suburban area off the beaten path. So took a cab and barely made it on time. Tour was in Japanese and although it was a nice garden, it was annoying to linger in places since I had extra viewing time while the guide was droning on. Met several landscaping and architecture students here for a program on Japanese gardens. Took the bus back--went to Sanjusangen-do Temple which had a 1001 wooden statues of Kannon. Pretty cool. The National Museum was across the street and since was cheap for students, popped on in. Pottery, old stuff and a few calligraphy and kimono displays. Skipped the special exhibition which was on the Art of Star Wars.
Had planned to finish off day with Kiyomizu Temple, thinking it closed at 6:30, but as I walked up the street, many people were walking in the opposite direction, saying the temple was closing. Pressed forward anyway, a steep walk far from the main road and looked open. About 10 seconds after I arrived, the guy pulled the closed rope so I just had enough time to walk up and around for about 5 minutes before going back. The main hall was under reconstruction anyway so apparently I didn't miss much.
So still have to wrap up my experience here--hopefully will have a chance to relax in Chicago. Kyoto was not the amazing place everyone said it would be, but think that's more because I was here more "taking its pulse" as my mom might say. Tokyo overall was ugly, but part of the interest is in learning the rhythm of the city, finding pockets of beauty and making friends, which I couldn't do here.
Highlights: Kamakura, Hirajuku/Ometesando, Pierrot Cafe in Shimokitezawa, Yokohama Doll Museum, Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation
Overrated: Nikko, Tokyo National Museum,Himeji Castle
Still left plenty of things to see if I choose to come back, but feel pretty content with what I managed to see while I was here...
Tuesday, July 01, 2003
Now in Kyoto. Got here yesterday, around 3 delayed because of a spur-of-the-moment layover in Himeji to see the castle,supposedly the best in Japan. Not really worth it--looks nice from the outside but the inside was a lot of empty gloomy rooms. Struggled with my luggage to Tour Club, a hostel recommended by the Aussie guys I met in Hiroshima. Seems nice--friendly owner and only share room with 4 other people. Most things close at 4 or 5 so only had time to see nearby Higashi Hongan-ji Temple--OK. Rushed off on wild-goose chase to see a shrine doing Nagoshi No Harai, a purification ritual which has people going through a big chinowa, circle made of palms. Took a while to get there, people already leaving with palms, reminding me of Palm Sunday. A freckled girl from Tokyo who spoke perfect English explained to me how to make my own palm circle. They don't have this ritual in Tokyo--apparently just a somewhat obscure Kyoto thing.
On way back, got off the bus at a cool-looking shrine which was still open (Yasaka). From there, walked along Gion neighborhood, full of shops and restaurants. Was looking for luggage since am worried about getting everything back without going over 3 piece limit, but got a big bag that should strap onto my backpack I think. Back at the hostel, met a lot of people, some of which gave me advice of places to go.
Today started out late, rainy day. Went to far NW Kyoto to see Kinkkuji, the golden pavillion (great!) and Ryoan-ji, a famous Zen garden (blah, couldn't get into the rock garden thing). Then off to NE Kyoto to see Ginkakuji, supposedly the silver pavillion, but not silver at all and a little bit of a letdown. Walked down the path of philosophy, stone road with some flowers and more temples which I was too tired to walk to. Bumped into group of Spanish tourists and Japanese junior high school girls, so chatted a bit. At end of path, saw Eikan-do which had nice garden, Nanzen-ji--nice paintings which were barely visible because the light was so weak and yet another rock garden, Konchi-in with pond and beautiful Zen rock garden, had green and twisted tree, so much much cooler to look at. Barely made it to Murin-an before closing, another garden which I randomly found which also had some paintings. A little disoriented, but made it to Heinan Shrine, with big red gate and lots of ema and wishes written. Got on bus to find lunch/dinner. Ended up on another shopping arcade and found Pombocho, where supposedly geisha sometimes walk the street (ha!). Glad to have bus pass so could just hop on and off with no worries.
All these temples and castles--need to take off shoes and wander in socks or slippers to go inside. All against backdrop of mountains. Very different atmosphere from central Kyoto with lights and stores, similar to Tokyo in some ways.
Menus and directories with headings in English but all the listings in Japanese--what is the point? Everyone ends up confused. If going to try to be bilingual, do it all the way.
On way back, got off the bus at a cool-looking shrine which was still open (Yasaka). From there, walked along Gion neighborhood, full of shops and restaurants. Was looking for luggage since am worried about getting everything back without going over 3 piece limit, but got a big bag that should strap onto my backpack I think. Back at the hostel, met a lot of people, some of which gave me advice of places to go.
Today started out late, rainy day. Went to far NW Kyoto to see Kinkkuji, the golden pavillion (great!) and Ryoan-ji, a famous Zen garden (blah, couldn't get into the rock garden thing). Then off to NE Kyoto to see Ginkakuji, supposedly the silver pavillion, but not silver at all and a little bit of a letdown. Walked down the path of philosophy, stone road with some flowers and more temples which I was too tired to walk to. Bumped into group of Spanish tourists and Japanese junior high school girls, so chatted a bit. At end of path, saw Eikan-do which had nice garden, Nanzen-ji--nice paintings which were barely visible because the light was so weak and yet another rock garden, Konchi-in with pond and beautiful Zen rock garden, had green and twisted tree, so much much cooler to look at. Barely made it to Murin-an before closing, another garden which I randomly found which also had some paintings. A little disoriented, but made it to Heinan Shrine, with big red gate and lots of ema and wishes written. Got on bus to find lunch/dinner. Ended up on another shopping arcade and found Pombocho, where supposedly geisha sometimes walk the street (ha!). Glad to have bus pass so could just hop on and off with no worries.
All these temples and castles--need to take off shoes and wander in socks or slippers to go inside. All against backdrop of mountains. Very different atmosphere from central Kyoto with lights and stores, similar to Tokyo in some ways.
Menus and directories with headings in English but all the listings in Japanese--what is the point? Everyone ends up confused. If going to try to be bilingual, do it all the way.
Monday, June 30, 2003
Another late night, packing and computer-ing. Another music session as Miho's sister put together a mix tape for me. Was hoping to do karaoke with them, but since it is more expensive on weekends, we stayed at home and they shared their favorite singers with me. I got several cds at the used cd shop next to their house so am increasing my weightload by even more, especially after the presents they gave me. Doubt I'll be able to afford a new suitcase, so will have to find a way to squeeze things together...
Yesterday was rainy, so we hung around Fukuoka. First the Asian Art Museum with a great variety of different countries and styles, then walking through a shopping arcade which had several floats being built for the famous festival later this month. Folk Museum then Canal City, a huge shopping mall which was a little bit overwhelming, especially since I was whoozy after not eating lunch. Even after eating a crepe(very popular in Japan it seems), still felt very much out of sorts until we got back home and ate dinner. Dropped off a film to be developed, but a little disappointed since turned out small and expensive. So saving the rest for 1-hr processing in Chicago.
Miho's dad had volunteered to drive us to Nagasaki, but was studying the map for a while and saying that it was farther than he thought in the evening--almost 3 hours. It turned out that Miho's friend had called for a study session since she had an exam so I just decided to use my railpass to day trip to Hiroshima since it was only an hour by Shinkansen.
Atomic bomb museum--very powerful. Much of exhibit showing schoolkid's uniform or ornament with story like: "this person was in this location and their body was never found but their relative found this and kept it to remember them by" or "this kid escaped but suffered massive burns and died the next day". Emphasis was towards peace and putting an end to nuclear weapons, with the peace clock ticking away the days since the last nuclear test and since the original bomb blast and cogs spinning faster when there is more danger in the world. Every time there is a nuclear test, the mayors of Nagasaki and Hiroshima send a protest telegram to the leaders or ambassadors or that country--there were *a lot* to US and USSR (copies on the museum wall). The atomic dome was less extreme than the WTC but the museum stressed the extent of the suffering caused by the bomb. Still surprised that Japan is not more bitter about that. Significant seeing it after Sept 11--becomes a little more real and hard to imagine how Cecilia and all these people got through such an experience.
Afterwards, went to Miyajima to famous red shrine. Many tame deer in ferry station area--would walk up to people and start chewing any stray paper they could find. Many trees and scenic mountains and shrines. Talked with a few Aussies and Americans visiting, too much waiting for train/ferries so got back late. Tomorrow, on to Kyoto!
Yesterday was rainy, so we hung around Fukuoka. First the Asian Art Museum with a great variety of different countries and styles, then walking through a shopping arcade which had several floats being built for the famous festival later this month. Folk Museum then Canal City, a huge shopping mall which was a little bit overwhelming, especially since I was whoozy after not eating lunch. Even after eating a crepe(very popular in Japan it seems), still felt very much out of sorts until we got back home and ate dinner. Dropped off a film to be developed, but a little disappointed since turned out small and expensive. So saving the rest for 1-hr processing in Chicago.
Miho's dad had volunteered to drive us to Nagasaki, but was studying the map for a while and saying that it was farther than he thought in the evening--almost 3 hours. It turned out that Miho's friend had called for a study session since she had an exam so I just decided to use my railpass to day trip to Hiroshima since it was only an hour by Shinkansen.
Atomic bomb museum--very powerful. Much of exhibit showing schoolkid's uniform or ornament with story like: "this person was in this location and their body was never found but their relative found this and kept it to remember them by" or "this kid escaped but suffered massive burns and died the next day". Emphasis was towards peace and putting an end to nuclear weapons, with the peace clock ticking away the days since the last nuclear test and since the original bomb blast and cogs spinning faster when there is more danger in the world. Every time there is a nuclear test, the mayors of Nagasaki and Hiroshima send a protest telegram to the leaders or ambassadors or that country--there were *a lot* to US and USSR (copies on the museum wall). The atomic dome was less extreme than the WTC but the museum stressed the extent of the suffering caused by the bomb. Still surprised that Japan is not more bitter about that. Significant seeing it after Sept 11--becomes a little more real and hard to imagine how Cecilia and all these people got through such an experience.
Afterwards, went to Miyajima to famous red shrine. Many tame deer in ferry station area--would walk up to people and start chewing any stray paper they could find. Many trees and scenic mountains and shrines. Talked with a few Aussies and Americans visiting, too much waiting for train/ferries so got back late. Tomorrow, on to Kyoto!
Saturday, June 28, 2003
Live from Fukuoka. After hours of condensing my stuff to halfway fit in my luggage (and not quite succeeding as someone still had to help me take it to Tokyo Station) then a six hour Shinkansen ride which went by amazingly quick, I arrived at Miho's place. Miho is someone who I met 5 years ago in Granada, Spain in a bathroom, as she just reminded me. She spoke no Spanish and was there with her dad who was there for a conference so I helped translate and we enjoyed the Alhambra together. So today was basically relaxing as we ate dinner and she showed me funky music videos and such. Now she is 23 and living with her parents in a 15th floor condominium while studying to be a history teacher. She is doing student teaching and taking Korean and German on the side. Her youngest sister is in prep school in New Zealand while her middle sister is taking classes in an effort to get into medical school--apparently completely dependent on passing entrance exams here and she hasn't scored high enough yet. Her dad is a professor who works with AI and robotics and helped organized the Robocup in Fukuoka a few years ago. Her mom traveled to 66 countries when she was 24! She is a great cook too--kept on putting food in front of me.
Yesterday was last day of program so Fab took the class out for the day. Nice lunch, Burning Ape Gallery, Nezu Museum/Gardens, karaoke, then another fancy meal at Zest. Marred somewhat by having to run to Harajuku then Shibuya and waiting for a while to exchange my JR pass--didn't think of it before even though I've had it all this time. But pleasant way to spend the last day. Many people around in guesthouse that evening so got a chance to say goodbye.
Finished watching "Samurai Fiction". Fun movie, though as with all parodies, I'd probably get more out of it if I knew more about original genre. Highlight--fight scenes set to techno music and with sweeping camera angles.
Random notes--Jap-Am guy helped me out with luggage even though pulled all-nighter getting his hair plucked out strand by strand by two of his friends. He wants to shave his head, but by using tweezers, not a razor.
Guy on train plugging away on internet since he had to work. Had a wireless connection of his own I guess, the way I originally thought it should be.
Kabuki was interesting though not quite understandable. Confusing with people yelling from audience, though remembered from Dave Barry that they were yelling actor's name. Samurai guy kept on getting attacked and he responded by cutting off people's faces or limbs with the actors flipping a red mask or taking off a fake hand to show what had been done, which got laughs.
Yesterday was last day of program so Fab took the class out for the day. Nice lunch, Burning Ape Gallery, Nezu Museum/Gardens, karaoke, then another fancy meal at Zest. Marred somewhat by having to run to Harajuku then Shibuya and waiting for a while to exchange my JR pass--didn't think of it before even though I've had it all this time. But pleasant way to spend the last day. Many people around in guesthouse that evening so got a chance to say goodbye.
Finished watching "Samurai Fiction". Fun movie, though as with all parodies, I'd probably get more out of it if I knew more about original genre. Highlight--fight scenes set to techno music and with sweeping camera angles.
Random notes--Jap-Am guy helped me out with luggage even though pulled all-nighter getting his hair plucked out strand by strand by two of his friends. He wants to shave his head, but by using tweezers, not a razor.
Guy on train plugging away on internet since he had to work. Had a wireless connection of his own I guess, the way I originally thought it should be.
Kabuki was interesting though not quite understandable. Confusing with people yelling from audience, though remembered from Dave Barry that they were yelling actor's name. Samurai guy kept on getting attacked and he responded by cutting off people's faces or limbs with the actors flipping a red mask or taking off a fake hand to show what had been done, which got laughs.
Wednesday, June 25, 2003
What a rush last night--after having to extend my cafe session for 15 min since I went over by a little, run to the train station and empty out my purse to find my ticket. The Yokohama trains run until pretty late, but was worried about connection once I got to Shibuya. Managed to make it there in time for the last train out, with 10 minutes to spare--yay!
On to kabuki and Ginza again...
On to kabuki and Ginza again...
