Tuesday, July 01, 2003
Now in Kyoto. Got here yesterday, around 3 delayed because of a spur-of-the-moment layover in Himeji to see the castle,supposedly the best in Japan. Not really worth it--looks nice from the outside but the inside was a lot of empty gloomy rooms. Struggled with my luggage to Tour Club, a hostel recommended by the Aussie guys I met in Hiroshima. Seems nice--friendly owner and only share room with 4 other people. Most things close at 4 or 5 so only had time to see nearby Higashi Hongan-ji Temple--OK. Rushed off on wild-goose chase to see a shrine doing Nagoshi No Harai, a purification ritual which has people going through a big chinowa, circle made of palms. Took a while to get there, people already leaving with palms, reminding me of Palm Sunday. A freckled girl from Tokyo who spoke perfect English explained to me how to make my own palm circle. They don't have this ritual in Tokyo--apparently just a somewhat obscure Kyoto thing.
On way back, got off the bus at a cool-looking shrine which was still open (Yasaka). From there, walked along Gion neighborhood, full of shops and restaurants. Was looking for luggage since am worried about getting everything back without going over 3 piece limit, but got a big bag that should strap onto my backpack I think. Back at the hostel, met a lot of people, some of which gave me advice of places to go.
Today started out late, rainy day. Went to far NW Kyoto to see Kinkkuji, the golden pavillion (great!) and Ryoan-ji, a famous Zen garden (blah, couldn't get into the rock garden thing). Then off to NE Kyoto to see Ginkakuji, supposedly the silver pavillion, but not silver at all and a little bit of a letdown. Walked down the path of philosophy, stone road with some flowers and more temples which I was too tired to walk to. Bumped into group of Spanish tourists and Japanese junior high school girls, so chatted a bit. At end of path, saw Eikan-do which had nice garden, Nanzen-ji--nice paintings which were barely visible because the light was so weak and yet another rock garden, Konchi-in with pond and beautiful Zen rock garden, had green and twisted tree, so much much cooler to look at. Barely made it to Murin-an before closing, another garden which I randomly found which also had some paintings. A little disoriented, but made it to Heinan Shrine, with big red gate and lots of ema and wishes written. Got on bus to find lunch/dinner. Ended up on another shopping arcade and found Pombocho, where supposedly geisha sometimes walk the street (ha!). Glad to have bus pass so could just hop on and off with no worries.
All these temples and castles--need to take off shoes and wander in socks or slippers to go inside. All against backdrop of mountains. Very different atmosphere from central Kyoto with lights and stores, similar to Tokyo in some ways.
Menus and directories with headings in English but all the listings in Japanese--what is the point? Everyone ends up confused. If going to try to be bilingual, do it all the way.
On way back, got off the bus at a cool-looking shrine which was still open (Yasaka). From there, walked along Gion neighborhood, full of shops and restaurants. Was looking for luggage since am worried about getting everything back without going over 3 piece limit, but got a big bag that should strap onto my backpack I think. Back at the hostel, met a lot of people, some of which gave me advice of places to go.
Today started out late, rainy day. Went to far NW Kyoto to see Kinkkuji, the golden pavillion (great!) and Ryoan-ji, a famous Zen garden (blah, couldn't get into the rock garden thing). Then off to NE Kyoto to see Ginkakuji, supposedly the silver pavillion, but not silver at all and a little bit of a letdown. Walked down the path of philosophy, stone road with some flowers and more temples which I was too tired to walk to. Bumped into group of Spanish tourists and Japanese junior high school girls, so chatted a bit. At end of path, saw Eikan-do which had nice garden, Nanzen-ji--nice paintings which were barely visible because the light was so weak and yet another rock garden, Konchi-in with pond and beautiful Zen rock garden, had green and twisted tree, so much much cooler to look at. Barely made it to Murin-an before closing, another garden which I randomly found which also had some paintings. A little disoriented, but made it to Heinan Shrine, with big red gate and lots of ema and wishes written. Got on bus to find lunch/dinner. Ended up on another shopping arcade and found Pombocho, where supposedly geisha sometimes walk the street (ha!). Glad to have bus pass so could just hop on and off with no worries.
All these temples and castles--need to take off shoes and wander in socks or slippers to go inside. All against backdrop of mountains. Very different atmosphere from central Kyoto with lights and stores, similar to Tokyo in some ways.
Menus and directories with headings in English but all the listings in Japanese--what is the point? Everyone ends up confused. If going to try to be bilingual, do it all the way.
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